Of Mountains and Apples

(This was written about 4 days ago)

Like champs, we have conquered another mountain here on the Camino de Santiago! Although the ascent was not as steep as round one, the downward climb was fairly treacherous. We walked from a 1500m elevation down to about 700m over the course of about 10 kms. The path was slick, rocky and begging to claim my ankles at any given moment. But alas we survived and it was honestly great. I imagine the view from the top would have been absolutely stunning, unfortunately we were stuck in a cloud! For ages it seemed as if we were just walking on a life-sized treadmill, not really going anywhere at all. Half-way down, though, the fog broke and the whole world opened up before us. It was beautiful. We also met a cow along the way. (You would not believe how many random stray animals there are wondering about this country. Cows, Sheep, Horses, Dogs, Cats... you name it.)

So after a day of climbing up and down, we arrive in the town of Molinaseca and are met with a bit of an unwelcome surprise. There were two albergues both on the otherside of twon: one was closed for the season, the other was locked but had a phone number on the front door. The next town was another 7 kms away: by Car, this is nothing. By foot, at the end of a long hard day, this is impossible. The option of heading to the Ponferrada was clearly out. We stood there for a few moments staring idly at the phone number (perhaps willing something magical to happen) but in the end we just trudged back to town to find us a pay phone, and figure out exactly how we might call this mystery Albergue person and converse in spanish. Luckily, we didn´t have to travel far. We ran into another Pilgrim who was both (a) Spanish, and (b) carring a cell phone. Hallelujah! One phone call from our bud and voila! We have a place to lay our tired heads -- and what a place it was! An open fire in the middle of the room made for a cozy sleepy steph...

Ah, but of apples as well:
Back while we were staring at the phone number on the front of the Albergue´s door, an elderly woman popped her head out of her house across the street. Although she didn´t speak a word of English, we managed to ask about another Albergue or perhaps a taxi to take us to the next city... By "managed" I mean we pointed and did actions! Anyways, she explained (in Spanish of course) that we had to either go back into the town and find a hotel, or keep walking to Ponferrada. She then disappeared and came back a moment later, a big smile on her face, prattling off in Spanish(that we could not understand). In her hands she carried a bundle of apples that she had just plucked from the tree in her yard and proudly handed them over as a gift to us. Such a simple gesture, but so great. Humbled, I am reminded yet again how kindness really knows no bounds.